Humphrey's Peak, Arizona Trip Report - 13 Nov 2009 By Beth Fairman, Photos - Shana Witkowski Friday the 13th. It was bound to be an eventful day in the Summit for Soldiers campaign. We five emerged from our tents to a cold and snowy morning. Our goal was to take the Summit for Soldiers campaign to Humphrey's Peak, 12,633 feet at the top of Arizona. This mission is more than just a day on the mountain. Steve Redenbaugh and Mike Fairman aim to raise awareness of Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD) in returning veterans by reaching the highpoint of each of our 50 states. So what exactly is PTSD? PTSD is a mental condition caused by a traumatic experience. Typically it requires an experience with the potential for death or serious injury. In PTSD, this trauma results in intense fear, helplessness or horror. Veterans returning from combat may experience flashbacks of traumatic events. They may withdraw. They may feel isolated. Nothing gives pleasure. Feelings of guilt and hopelessness surface. Nightmares or memories of tragedies dominate the hours when the rest of the world dreams peacefully. Untreated, PTSD may lead to alcohol abuse, suicide, domestic violence, reckless behavior, marital problems or inability to keep a job. Summit for Soldiers is a campaign to reach out to those hurting from this disorder, to increase the awareness that it is a significant problem in our returning troops and to reduce the stigma of this disorder through education. So, back to the mountain…There was only a 10% chance of light precipitation at highest elevations. So we set out, optimistically expecting the best. Our camp site was in the shadow of Humphrey's Peak. So we packed everything up and headed out. Greg, our trusty driver and fellow hiker showed complete and utter disdain for the elements as the tattered ribbons which passed for windshield wipers flailed against the flurries. We trekked from the parking lot, across a field, under a ski lift and up to the trail head at 9320 ft elevation. Mike signed us in at 10:15 a.m. He told us it was billed as a strenuous 4-5 hour hike. Why is it that the Gilligan's Island theme song pops into my head…" a three hour tour, a three hour tour…" ? Early on, poor satellite coverage made GPS guidance patchy. It was impossible to calibrate the GPS due to clouds, but the trail was well marked and Mike kept track of our progress using a compass and map. Due to snowy precipitation, he ate his peanut butter and jelly sandwich in order to use the ziplock bag to protect the map from the weather. Care was taken not to mistake strawberry jelly for the red marked trail! Shana's eye captured the magical mist through the trees with her digital Canon. Natural beauty that many will never experience. She was mindful of this privilege we shared. Thank goodness Shana took the photos, because I was so intent on not embarrassing myself due to my inability to keep up with everyone, that I barely noted the scenery. Huffing and puffing, I brought up the rear. After the second switchback, Mike discovered the map was inaccurate. Not to worry, everyone was strong and the trail was clearly marked. The GPS signal was coming in now. Mike and Steve are experienced in high altitude climbing, even though the rest of us had never undertaken such a strenuous hike. In spite of our inexperience, everything was going well, just a bit slow. Stopping for short breaks, eating Jolly Ranchers and drinking plenty of water we progressed. Mike seemed to thrive on the thinning air. Steve toted gallons of water as if it weighed nothing. Greg and Shana set an athletic pace. This pace confirmed that I am not an athlete. Fear of shame drives people to do lots of things! Up and up, back and forth ascending to the treeline. We met a lone hiker returning from the summit. He reported 60 mph gusts of winds and pelting snow. It seems that the map was not the only thing that was inaccurate! He was the only other person we encountered on the mountain that day. One website says there are often as many as 100 people hiking up Humphrey's Peak in a day. Probably not in November. Probably not on Friday the 13th. Eventually we emerged from the forest and the switchbacks. Headed upwards to the treeline. This is right around 11,400 feet. Above the treeline, was a saddleback. We were now embarking on a mile of exposed mountain. The barren snow covered rocks showed no mercy. A little Gore-tex, fleece and a puffy jacket were all that separated us from the elements. We had earth - (rocky terrain peeping through the snow), wind (60 mph gusts, flapping all around us) and er….no fire, just pelting snow! By now I was counting my steps. 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10. Step, step, breathe, breathe. And there it was again, the Gilligan's Island theme song…."the weather started getting rough!" Shana and Greg, though inexperienced at altitude climbing, pressed onward with commendable strength. The cold was held at bay by continued motion. After traversing a particularly exposed region of the ridge above the treeline, a sign beckoned. But alas, no encouraging words were found, just a warning that straying from the path carried a $500 fine. Up, up, trudge, trudge. Eventually another sign. Perhaps this one would say, 'Summit this way' or 'Humphrey's Peak 100 feet ahead' …The signs offered no encouragement, only a terse message: "Fragile environment: Stay on Trail". Up and up and over another ridge. Then down a little bit! We must have passed 2 false summits. Steve scouted ahead but still had not seen the summit. The false summits were discouraging. Winter weather bombarded us. It was now 5 o'clock. We had left the parking lot 7 hours ago. Steve and Mike assessed the situation. Snow was pelting us horizontally. Darkness would be quick on the heels of the grey day. Although we were probably within 200 feet of the top, we had yet to spy the summit. Considering all factors, they quickly decided it was time to get off the mountain. We would leave the summit for another day. We snapped a photo and turned our feet downward. It is highly likely that Mike and Steve could have reached the summit and gotten back down safely without us, but their policy has always been to make the climb about being together and bringing everyone along. They have never subscribed to the single minded goal of reaching the summit at all costs. With that decision made, Shana and Greg nimbly sped down towards the tree line. Sandwiched between Steve and my faithful husband Mike, I gracelessly descended as quickly as possible. Even so the descent off the ridge took about an hour. Frozen crusts of snow kept the wind from penetrating our gloves. Mike's eye was frozen shut by the icy wind. Clouds and snow threatened to cover everything and obscure the path to safety. Everyone convened at the treeline. Never had a scruffy pine looked so inviting. It seemed to give off heat as it sheltered us. We took a break to dig flashlights out of backpacks. LED headlights aimed toward feet, and feet aimed down the mountain. Now safe, there was just the business of retracing steps, down and down. The downward trek was much easier for me. It was only in retrospect, after our descent, that the effect of the altitude became obvious. When we finally all came off Humphrey's Peak we had hiked for 11 hours to a height of about 12,400 feet, ascending about 3100 feet. The peak was not in sight, but we know we were within about 200 vertical feet of the summit. We endured harsh winter conditions which transformed a moderately strenuous hike into a challenge. Although we did not make it to the top of Arizona that day, the 5 of us united to tackle the mountain. We had great trust in Mike and Steve who led everyone down safely. We also have great trust that Summit for Soldiers will make a difference for veterans suffering from PTSD. Seems like Mike and Steve are already making plans for the next summit…Florida anyone? | 
